A tick bite almost ended visionary chef Kirk Haworth’s stellar career – but now it’s unexpectedly earned him a history-making Michelin star.
Plates, the London-based eaterie Haworth founded with his sister Keeley (pictured above), is the UK’s first vegan restaurant to win the coveted culinary gong.
It comes eight years after Haworth pivoted to a plant-based diet to manage the debilitating symptoms of Lyme disease, the bacterial infection spread by ticks. “Earning a Michelin star is such an incredible honour and a lifetime goal since I was a young boy,” Haworth said.
“To be the first in the plant-based sphere in the UK to win this prestigious award makes me unbelievably proud, and I am so grateful to our talented team for their support and dedication.”
Haworth contracted Lyme disease while working in Sydney around 2012. The condition went undiagnosed for four years while he limped into work with chronic pain and blinding headaches.
He eventually moved back to the UK to live with his father, Nigel – also a chef and another Michelin awardee – and explored healing his body by going vegan. Experts recommend mitigating Lyme disease through a whole-food, gluten-free and anti-inflammatory diet low in refined sugars.
Haworth used his classical training to find fresh inspiration within the boundaries of a meat, fish and dairy-free menu, and eventually teamed up with Keeley to open Plates in 2024, showcasing their ‘devotion to both food and nature’.
Michelin’s notoriously picky inspectors found that Haworth’s dishes “could convince the most committed of carnivores”. “He is clearly passionate about what he’s doing here,” they said. “As someone who’s going to eat plant-based food for the rest of his life, he’s on a mission to make sure it’s as delicious as possible.
“The depth and balance of the dishes was superb: each one came with layers of flavour and texture that all worked together in brilliant harmony.”
As someone who’s going to eat plant-based food for the rest of his life, he’s on a mission to make sure it’s as delicious as possible
Plates’ mouthwatering and slaughter-free tasting menu includes a mung and urad bean lasagne with miso and chive sauce, and a black truffle and artichoke risotto with blood orange and toasted hazelnut.
Those with a sweet tooth will find satisfaction in Haworth’s raw cacao gateau served with sour cherry and coconut blossom ice cream.
If you’re already salivating, we’d suggest getting your reservation in early: at the time of writing Plates was booked up two months in advance.
In the meantime, watch out for the Plates Farm and Retreat opening in south-west France in May.
What the inspectors ate
“Since it opened, Plates London has been permanently packed – and not just with vegans,” found Michelin’s inspectors. “The restaurant is full of curious and discerning diners, who are here not because of their diets but because they’ve heard it’s one of the most exciting new restaurants around.”
Here are the dishes they sampled on their visit
1) House laminated sourdough bread, whipped butter, fermented redcurrant, winter spices
“This glistening golden roll was warm and flaky, almost like a croissant in texture with its lovely crisp exterior and soft, slightly sweet interior. The butter served with this signature bread is often infused with spirulina, but during our visit we were treated to a seasonal variation. The cashew-based butter was enhanced by warming spices and sharp redcurrants to cut through the richness.”
2) Barbecued maitake mushroom, black bean mole, kimchi, aioli and puffed rice
“After several inspector visits to Plates in the last year, every one of us came out singing the praises of this exceptional mushroom dish. The maitake had a delicious natural flavour, earthy and with a buttery texture. Elevating the dish was a superb mole, which had outstanding depth of flavour and was topped with a subtly spiced fine kimchi and a sprinkling of puffed rice. The way each layer of flavour and texture married together here was a prime example of everything this kitchen is great at.”
3) Rice pudding ice cream, chewy beets and mulberries
“One of three desserts when we visited, this was a fitting introduction to the sweeter courses. Again, it was supremely well-balanced, with the sweetness of the smooth rice pudding ice cream contrasted by the acidity of the mulberries and tangy beetroot jam. Chewy beets and shards of toasted rice flakes ensured this was another course where the textures were just as interesting as the flavours.”
4) Raw cacao gateaux, sour cherry, coconut blossom ice cream, African pepper, toasted macadamia and raw caramel
“A smooth ring of beautifully textured chocolate sponge was layered with light chocolate mousse, encased in a crisp chocolate shell and dusted with cacao powder. The compote of sour cherries provided a balancing sour hit, while the coconut blossom ice cream was incredibly smooth and again complemented the cacao so well. A few crunchy macadamia pieces added another texture, a dash of pepper brought a welcome warmth and the drizzle of raw caramel sauce was the perfect final touch – thick and rich, with just the right amount of sweetness.”
Main image: Safia Shakarchi
Be part of the solution
Positive News is helping more people than ever to get a balanced and uplifting view of the world. While doom and gloom dominates other news outlets, our solutions journalism exists to support your wellbeing and empower you to make a difference towards a better future.
But our reporting has a cost and, as an independent, not-for-profit media organisation, we rely on the financial backing of our readers. If you value what we do and can afford to, please get behind our team with a regular or one-off contribution.
Give once from just £1, or join 1,500+ others who contribute an average of £3 or more per month. You’ll be directly funding the production and sharing of our stories – helping our solutions journalism to benefit many more people.
Join our community today, and together, we’ll change the news for good.